“How can you govern a country which has 246 varieties of cheese?” - Charles de Gaulle

When the war on raw milk cheeses began, it forced small-artisan, Provence-based cheese-makers to fight to protect their way of life from evolving political European movements. They literally had to “get their act together.” From this, in 1981, was born the Fédération Régionale des Elevages de Côte d’Azur Alpes Provence (FRECAP) [The Regional Federation of Animal Husbandry of the Cote D’Azur, the Alpes and Provence]. This organization gave a united voice to artisan cheese-makers. Now, FRECAP has defined unique farmer-made cheese—fromage fermier—as cheese that is made under these circumstances:

• A small family farm (1-3 workers, 5-200 animals)
• All the milk processed on the premises and coming from the animals raised and nourished on the premises
• The cheeses produced and aged on the premises and sold by the farmer himself

These are the pillars of the federation. Of prime importance is the tenet that the cheese be made with milk from the family’s farm, and not milk purchased elsewhere.

The fresh and delicate flavor of the Gardian from the Camargue river delta region of Provence must be purchased directly from the cheese-maker at a local market. Sold in its whey at one day old, this cheese is eaten with a drizzle of olive oil and herbs. The Banon de Banon is a sweet curdle goat cheese from Haute Provence, distinguished by its small round form, wrapped in chestnut leaves. Protected by Appellation of Controlled Origin (AOC) laws, this cheese is ready to eat after two weeks’ aging.

The fresh young goat cheese sold in the United States must be made from pasteurized milk, is packaged in vacuum seal wrap and must be kept refrigerated. By contrast, in Provence, a similar fresh goat cheese made from raw milk, begins to evolve at room temperature. First it is a tart lactic acid cheese, then it becomes a mild, creamy, runny cheese, then finally it transforms into a pungent hard cheese that has shrunk from dehydration, one of the oldest methods of food preservation.

This is the story of one such hard-working, stubborn farm family committed to their way of life and to producing unique cheeses for the world to savor. Twenty-five years ago, a Dutchman, Leo Van Der Steen, was living on a farm in Southern France; he was given two kid goats, both female. Now, over two decades later, Van Der Steen and his wife Marija have a herd of 60+, which allows them to live off their land. Their goat cheese is made by and sold throughout the region and has won numerous citations for its quality. And yes, they did need a billy goat for breeding; in fact, two billy goats with long black beards are part of today’s herd.

City people may think that running a farm is the simple life. But they couldn't be more wrong. It’s hard, hard work.

In the beginning the couple didn’t know how to make cheese, but they apprenticed themselves in nearby Perpignan. Producing their own cheeses wasn’t enough: the product needed to be sold. In France, any farmer has the right to sell his produce from stands in the open-air marchés held at least weekly in almost all villages during the mornings, which is different from the way cheese is sold in their native Holland. The Van Der Steen cheeses are sold in five marchés during the summer months, so they do not have to resort to searching out commercial buyers. They have two stands. Leo maintains one, and a helper mans the other when he is not working on the farm. Part of the farm house itself has been turned into a small store, where buyers can taste test before selecting.

From February through October, Marija’s days begin at 5.30 a.m. They often do not end until 9 or later at night. During the winter months, when the goats are no longer giving milk, she sleeps in until 8:30 a.m., and even gets a chance to read the mystery books of which she is a fan and knit!

The goats mill about and intermingle freely in a large barn, that smells of fresh straw. They have learned to push their heads through the slats to greet the visitors, because the couple offers barn tours. More than one child has found his shirt being tasted!

Marija is the one who is aware that the goats form relationships. One goat who is 10 just lost her best friend who was 12. The older goat had a heart attack after giving birth to her last two kids. Although Marija claims not to be attached to the goats, she knows who is who and their different personalities. She may declare that 'that one over there isn’t a very nice goat', while she praises another.

Milk season begins in late winter or early spring, when the goats give birth to twins or triplets. This year one goat produced quads! By mid June, the kids are about half grown; they frolic about in their enclosures and then when visitors appear, they participate in the meet and greet activities every bit as much as their mothers do.

Twice a day in spring or once a day in summer and fall, the goats amble toward the milking room where they are attached to the pumps. During winter, a change of diet causes their milk to dry up, and no milking is done.

The milk is poured into vats. Goat cheese is raw cheese. Rennet is added. Once it starts to develop curds, the cheese is put into moulds. Marija has developed her own recipes by adding some unusual herbs and spices, such as nettles or fenugreek, with its odor slightly reminiscent of maple. They are made in small quantities and sells out much too fast for its many regional fans. Other cheeses are sold plain and some are bottled with olive oil.

Besides the goats, the couple keeps over 40 hens for laying eggs and in addition, they grows most of their vegetables, selling the surplus. Not all the animals work. A new puppy, Dina, brought home from the marché by Leo, investigates each stick and stone, while the older dog, Orca, gets her own share of the attention.

If this life seems blissfully bucolic, the modern-day does intrude. Tons of paperwork is required to keep up with the European Union regulations, including step-by-step reporting of the cheese-making process, the monitoring of the health of the goats, and the juggling of many priorities.

Then there are the one-time problems. Recently, Marija paid 30 Euros to send 40 Euros worth of cheese to a contest in Italy. It never arrived. The Van Der Steens just hope that a postal worker somewhere enjoyed the cheese, preferably with a loaf of good bread and a bottle of wine.

When asked what she would do if she had another life, Marija smiles and replies, “Sleep!” But this is the middle of their busiest time of year.

This may not be a fairy tale life, but it is a quality life, and one the Van Der Steens are determined to preserve.



About the Author
D-L Nelson is a Swiss-American living in Europe. She is the author of two novels, Chickpea Lover: Not a Cookbook and The Card.

She is also editor and publisher of www.Cunewswire.com an electronic news service for Canadian credit unions.