Somewhere between the glass jars of Jacobs and Nescafe instant coffees , the tetra packs of barszcz and the ubiquitous display of Kinder eggs, I felt the frustration simmer up to my ears. Bored from shifting my weight between my right and left leg, my arms long ago having given up on carrying the obligatory shopping basket (now situated between my two feet for efficient shuffling, should we ever move forward in the line), I revealed myself as a foreigner with an exasperated sigh. In the past half an hour, we had moved approximately three customers closer to the register, and four couples remained in front of us.
Every payment had to be made in exact change, to the grosz, and in the precise denominations preferred by the clerk. The customer at the register, having given up on digging for three 10-grosz pieces and one 5, emptied out her coin purse into her palm and extended it to the clerk to speed up the process. Not finding the satisfactory coins, she turned in desperation to the next customer in line and bartered change. If you ever wanted to have your turn at the check-out counter, you’d cooperate with the poor customer in front of you.
Finally, only three customers to go, and it would be our turn to pay for our muesli and juice. Compared to the grueling class schedule earlier that day, my life that hour had become nauseatingly slow. Still wrapped in my scarf and hat, my jacket bringing me to a boil, I searched for a logical explanation through the rapidly growing mental fog.
“I just don’t get it,” I moaned to my husband as inconspicuously as possible, “How can this possibly take so long?”
“It’s Poland,” he sighed.
Ahead of us, another familiar scenario played out: one person stood in line with an empty basket, while his companions shopped for items one at a time and placed them into the basket, departing again for more. The process seemed to continue up until the very moment that the waiting customer had arrived at the cash register. Apparently, they base their grocery list on how much they can buy in the time allotted by the line, I thought, wishing we’d done the same. It had to be faster, I thought with a scowl.
“But Carrefour is a French supermarket!” I insisted to my husband, reviving my gripe. The shelves of one of the world’s largest retailers were stocked with everything from soy milk to salsa, the freezers stuffed with drinkable yogurt and delicious bagged berry medleys, the housewares section complete enough to rival any Wal-Mart. On the surface, it was like any other industrialized nation.
“Doesn’t matter- the culture is Polish,” he grumbled, his head tilted back in agitation. Smiling wryly, he quoted the region’s motto, “Haste leads to degradation.”
There’s the rub, I thought bitterly. In spite of nearly twenty years after the end of Soviet domination, Poland was still cloaked in its own mental iron curtain. Long lines. Poor customer service. A widespread acceptance of mediocrity. A largely cash-based economy. Political ineptitude and a lack of real economic opportunities for young people, aside from immigration. Grey buildings and even bleaker skies, broken sidewalk cobbles and menacing Skoda drivers barreling down on pedestrians. Clinging to a noble past of suffering and victimization, wavering in the face of an uncertain future.
Exiting the large double doors with our bags in tow, the cool night air shocked my cheeks and jolted my spirit out of its irritation. Walking past the train station with the seasonal skating rink in front, we made our way through the pedestrian underpass back into the Old Town. Vendors hawking sour sheep’s cheese imprinted with fancy patterns, striking autumnal floral arrangements, miniature bagels on strings, and colorful mittens vied for our attention in vain. My mind was occupied with the trials and tribulations of life in a transitioning country.
Carefully dodging the icy potholes, the elderly gentleman playing the harmonica, and arm-linked couples enjoying a romantic stroll, my eyes turned to the glow of the main market square ahead. Seduced again by the glistening Słowackiego theater on my left, the haunting remains of the ancient city wall on my right, and the anticipation of the magical Sukiennice cloth hall through the alleyways, I felt my heart sink with guilt.
Life was frustrating here, but that certainly wasn’t the full story. My experiences that evening, the surreal and incomprehensible swing from stagnation and irritation in the hypermarche to bliss and exhilaration ten minutes later on the streets reflected the complicated reality of life in Poland.
It is full of inconsistencies, bureaucratic mazes, masked faces, false hopes, and intense pride, but also an enchanting aura wafting through the crevices, a sorrowful but angelic aria permeating the nation’s soul. In order to completely understand its mystery, one would need to spend a lifetime peeling back the layers, painstakingly deciphering its clues. Poland, I was discovering, was an enigma.
I was in good company as I tried to resolve its riddles. My first months in Krakow were a tumultuous period in Polish domestic as well as foreign relations- a time when European Union leaders and Poland’s own citizens would become increasingly confounded with the status quo.
Particularly within the EU, a swelling “Poland fatigue” came to dominate all diplomacy like an omnipresent and obstinate cloud. Having expanded to include Poland in 2004, the former member states complained increasingly vocally that Poland seemed to mistakenly believe that the EU had joined it, rather than the other way around.
Resenting the march of European history that had nearly obliterated and then forgotten it, and realizing its geopolitical leverage for the first time, Poland overplayed its hand in round after round, alienating nearly every ally. The ruling Law and Justice party (PiS) retaliated over the most minor infractions with Germany, at one point cancelling a high level visit due to an unfavorable newspaper editorial. As the EU attempted to wrap up the Lisbon Treaty negotiations, an increasingly mercurial and sanctimonious Polish posture towards Germany threatened to unravel years of international effort. Warsaw also impeded Brussels’ efforts to thaw relations with Moscow, raising concerns over Russian energy shipments to the subcontinent as winter rapidly approached.
An overwhelming and self-defeating paranoia and victimization in combination with an intense messianic mission drove Warsaw’s self perception and policy. Acidly hostile towards Germany due to unresolved disputes from the Second World War and distrusting Russia following the Cold War; still bitter at the opulent “West” for its perceived abandonment of Poland twice to its enemies; convinced of its fraternal and moral mission to lead the nations of Eastern Europe to freedom; and finally, certain only of the military backing of the distant United States, Poland lashed out at its past and nearly lost its foothold on the future.
The situation was at least as bad on the home front. Besieging its opponents with allegations of corruption, mafia ties, sex crimes and communism, PiS found itself caught in its own avalanche and lost control of the political implosion it had set in motion. Championing the interests of its primarily elderly, agrarian, impoverished and staunchly Catholic supporters, the President and Prime Minister (coincidentally, twin brothers) failed to inspire the hope of young, educated workers with upward aspirations and experience abroad. Clinging to a sense of moral superiority and confident in a victory, the majority party voted to dissolve itself in September.
Weary of PiS’s overzealous political machinations, the EU held its breath for one month. When the results of the snap elections were tallied, it, and much of Poland, was able to finally breathe a sigh of relief. Donald Tusk, of the pro-business Civic Platform, had persuaded voters that the time for a new course in domestic and foreign policy had arrived. Young, attractive and athletic, well educated and articulate, hopeful and charismatic, he appeared the John F. Kennedy to the Nikita Krushchev. Immediately shaking hands with EU leaders, he promised to revive Poland’s relationship with the supranational body, and promptly set to work on ironing out old problems. Particularly with Russia, cracks appeared in the ice if not a thaw, as Tusk sent high level delegations to discuss bilateral issues. And with the US, Tusk has held a firmer line, delicately attempting to balance the wishes of its former champion with its geopolitical reality.
In spite of the greatest turnout PiS had ever seen by its supporters, Tusk carried the election due to tidal wave of support, primarily by younger citizens, many of whom cast their votes from abroad. Whether Tusk will be the answer to Poland’s heartfelt prayers remains to be seen; what is clear at this point is the desire of the nation’s younger generation to make peace with the past and take its proper place on the pedestals of Europe.
Arriving at my apartment, squeezing past waiting tram passengers and customers scurrying into the apteka, I paused for a moment with my key in hand. Turning around back towards the Planty, a green ring created when the Austrian invasion obliterated the old city walls, I felt for a moment a flickering of understanding, as if the enigma had brushed past my skin and whispered in my ear. Perhaps it cannot be cracked, and perhaps the legacies of past suffering will linger past their expiration date. Long lines may remain, but so does the indefatigable Polish spirit. Just as the acid-rain washed buildings on the Rynek sparkle again under the sun and new paint, and just as the city created a park out of the destruction of its ancient history, so too will the nation rise again. Just how it will transpire remains to be seen.
I couldn't agree more. Here in Arizona, once popular hiking trails are now dangerous territory as both innocent day trippers and patrols have discovered armed crops of marijuana in what would normally be considered "the middle of nowhere".
Posted by MHahn | November 19, 2008 12:31 PM
Melissa, I was deeply humbled by your article. Having grown up in Arizona, I was surrounded by many students that we called "Hispanic"; in all honesty, I never got to know them or their personal stories, and may have assumed incorrectly that they even spoke Spanish (as opposed to an indigenous language, as Swaneagle suggests above). What I did notice is that it was extremely rare for any student with a remotely Hispanic-sounding name to be in an honors class. How could this be, I wondered. Surely it was not true that an entire demographic at my school was intellectually inferior. So, like many, I assumed it was laziness. The idea that teenagers who were falling behind in school or dropping out did so because of such insurmountable obstacles never occurred to me or any or my friends.
Now, reading this article, I realize what a terrible disservice our school did for that community, and continues to do. Non-White Hispanic students in Arizona have some of the highest high school drop out rates in the nation. It seems that without the type of broad intervention outlined by this article, the problems are only going to get worse and the cycle will continue. Thank you for this important and moving article!
Posted by MHahn | November 15, 2008 12:10 PM
Afsaana, thank you for this important and tragic article. As you said, the children and women here have paid too high a price for the ongoing conflict. Your coverage provides a rare glimpse into the many layers of life in Indian-administered Kashmir.
Posted by MHahn | November 6, 2008 10:38 AM
This photo is beautiful. It truly represents the new American family, and the hopes that we all hold for the future. Congratulations, Barack and family!
Posted by MHahn | November 5, 2008 2:31 PM
Viktor, thank you for this important blog! When we hear about Serbia in the news abroad, we hear only of political issues between Serbia and Kosovo. It is very rare to hear about the problems within Serbia, particularly regarding the crumbling and insufficient (and inefficient) infrastructure. I wonder, are the political battles over Kosovo that had been waged for the past decade as much a distraction from Serbia's other problems as a genuine issue?
Posted by MHahn | November 4, 2008 8:24 AM
It seems to me that Sarah Palin has some combination of violence and beauty in her that is attractive to men... but as a woman, I find myself wanting to tear her eyes out everytime she winks at me across the airwaves. She has great hair, and a pretty stellar figure for having brought several children into the world...but this isn't America's top model.
Maybe, though, we'd be better off if there was a panel of experts who just removed candidates who were utterly unqualified for the job at the end of each episode. They could say things like, "Governor, you demonstrated absolutely no comprehension of the serious issues facing our society. You're gone." Then Palin would have made it through a few rounds, we all would have had a few laughts, and it would all be over.
Sadly, people seem to be harsher critics of reality TV stars than potential leaders of our nation. Let's hope we see Sarah Palin on "Dancing with the Stars: Political runner-up edition", and never on the White House lawn.
Posted by MHahn | October 20, 2008 8:19 PM
Americans are so accustomed to viewing Russia as evil incarnate that we cannot grasp the idea that our ally, Georgia, could possibly be a threat to its restive ethnic populations. In classic US black-and-white thinking, we oversimplified the brief August war, dividing the parties in into our familiar categories of "good guys" and "bad guys".
It seems to me that instead of trying to decide whether American policy should be pro-Russia or pro-Georgian, the next US president needs to decide whether to be pro-self determination or not. If we are truly for the self-determination of all peoples, this means we must brace ourselves for nearly constant military intervention, in service as the world's policeman for the myriad smaller groups of people who cannot defend themselves. In doing so, we risk being the next occupiers, as we now witness in Iraq. If we do not actively support the self-determination of all peoples, then we must admit that our "universal" laws underlying our national philosophy and Constitution are actually impossible to achieve, a realization that undermines our very self-conceptualization.
We are unable to reconcile these two halves of the American psyche: the belief in freedom, and the necessity of being practical. So, we end up with an ad-hoc approach towards world events such as the August war and the war in Chechnya.
I couldn't agree more with your argument that it is hypocritical to support Georgia against Russia, but not Chechnya. Perhaps it boils down to who we like more: the Georgian president is US-educated, and speaks in our idioms. Chechans have no such bridge builder, so in their case, we seem to like Russia better. Clearly, our ambiguous policies in the region are only making the situation worse.
Posted by MHahn | October 14, 2008 1:24 PM
Genie, this was one of the most articulate and well-written articles that I have had the pleasure to read on this topic. Your interviewees' responses really reflect the range of opinions and emotions that many of us feel, with the added advantage that the individuals are in positions to actually also comprehend the full gravity of the situation, due to their careers and expertise.
Personally, I think that the government should mostly let the chips fall where they may. I think that the bail-out did not address many of the endemic problems in our system and institutions, and instead is merely delaying the inevitable complete fall to the bottom.
I don't think it is merely a problem of greed on Wall Street, but is a combination of factors- the main one being a complexity of the marketplace that ordinary citizens cannot possibly understand. However, I also blame the people who bought houses that they couldn't afford, and I don't think the government should rescue them. Instead, it would be better in my opinion for the government to use that tax money to help cushion the blow of the market crash, by increasing unemployment benefits for example, or paying people's health insurance.
Thank you for this article!
Posted by MHahn | October 12, 2008 12:25 PM
The layers of tragedy in this story are heart-wrenching. Thank you for sharing this important story; before I read your article, I had no idea that such a phenomenon as Reproductive Tourism even existed. Now I realize that it is a major industry, one that seems to make huge profits in the vacuum created by the current state of Indian law. The desperation felt by so many of the players- the women who choose surrogacy out of economic insecurity, the couples who seek the surrogates out of a last hope for having a child, and the families like the Yamadas, whose lives are torn apart by circumstances that surpass the bounds of the law-is incredibly moving.
Posted by MHahn | October 7, 2008 6:42 PM
I agree. I personally felt nauseated watching the nonsense on display every time Sarah Palin took her turn at the podium. It's not just a matter of disagreeing on policies being set forth between equals; instead, it truly seemed that the Governor from Alaska had committed five or six lines to memory and was surviving the debate by spouting those few talking points every chance she got.
I cannot see any way that her performance would appeal to a female voter~ certainly not the caliber of woman that would have been staking their vote with Hillary a few months ago. As I watched the only debate between the two candidates for vice president in perhaps the most critical election of our lifetime, it seemed that only one candidate grasped the gravity of the situation. Ms. Palin was not only out of her league, but out of her mind.
Lacking any poltical savy or finess, she was agressive and abrasive but without any knowledge to back up her statements and accusations. Not just a Washington outsider, she seems to have almost no basic knowledge about the issues of our day or the mechanics of our political system, even at the level one would expect of an eight grade civics student.
But then, that explains the dichotomy between the two candidates. While Biden made his case for his party as an elder statesman, Palin appeared to be running for junior high Student Council. If the future of the nation (and perhaps the world, since our elections tend to affect the entire planet), it would be hysterical. Instead, it's simply frightening.
Posted by MHahn | October 4, 2008 2:26 PM