Somewhere between the glass jars of Jacobs and Nescafe instant coffees , the tetra packs of barszcz and the ubiquitous display of Kinder eggs, I felt the frustration simmer up to my ears. Bored from shifting my weight between my right and left leg, my arms long ago having given up on carrying the obligatory shopping basket (now situated between my two feet for efficient shuffling, should we ever move forward in the line), I revealed myself as a foreigner with an exasperated sigh. In the past half an hour, we had moved approximately three customers closer to the register, and four couples remained in front of us.
Every payment had to be made in exact change, to the grosz, and in the precise denominations preferred by the clerk. The customer at the register, having given up on digging for three 10-grosz pieces and one 5, emptied out her coin purse into her palm and extended it to the clerk to speed up the process. Not finding the satisfactory coins, she turned in desperation to the next customer in line and bartered change. If you ever wanted to have your turn at the check-out counter, you’d cooperate with the poor customer in front of you.
Finally, only three customers to go, and it would be our turn to pay for our muesli and juice. Compared to the grueling class schedule earlier that day, my life that hour had become nauseatingly slow. Still wrapped in my scarf and hat, my jacket bringing me to a boil, I searched for a logical explanation through the rapidly growing mental fog.
“I just don’t get it,” I moaned to my husband as inconspicuously as possible, “How can this possibly take so long?”
“It’s Poland,” he sighed.
Ahead of us, another familiar scenario played out: one person stood in line with an empty basket, while his companions shopped for items one at a time and placed them into the basket, departing again for more. The process seemed to continue up until the very moment that the waiting customer had arrived at the cash register. Apparently, they base their grocery list on how much they can buy in the time allotted by the line, I thought, wishing we’d done the same. It had to be faster, I thought with a scowl.
“But Carrefour is a French supermarket!” I insisted to my husband, reviving my gripe. The shelves of one of the world’s largest retailers were stocked with everything from soy milk to salsa, the freezers stuffed with drinkable yogurt and delicious bagged berry medleys, the housewares section complete enough to rival any Wal-Mart. On the surface, it was like any other industrialized nation.
“Doesn’t matter- the culture is Polish,” he grumbled, his head tilted back in agitation. Smiling wryly, he quoted the region’s motto, “Haste leads to degradation.”
There’s the rub, I thought bitterly. In spite of nearly twenty years after the end of Soviet domination, Poland was still cloaked in its own mental iron curtain. Long lines. Poor customer service. A widespread acceptance of mediocrity. A largely cash-based economy. Political ineptitude and a lack of real economic opportunities for young people, aside from immigration. Grey buildings and even bleaker skies, broken sidewalk cobbles and menacing Skoda drivers barreling down on pedestrians. Clinging to a noble past of suffering and victimization, wavering in the face of an uncertain future.
Exiting the large double doors with our bags in tow, the cool night air shocked my cheeks and jolted my spirit out of its irritation. Walking past the train station with the seasonal skating rink in front, we made our way through the pedestrian underpass back into the Old Town. Vendors hawking sour sheep’s cheese imprinted with fancy patterns, striking autumnal floral arrangements, miniature bagels on strings, and colorful mittens vied for our attention in vain. My mind was occupied with the trials and tribulations of life in a transitioning country.
Carefully dodging the icy potholes, the elderly gentleman playing the harmonica, and arm-linked couples enjoying a romantic stroll, my eyes turned to the glow of the main market square ahead. Seduced again by the glistening Słowackiego theater on my left, the haunting remains of the ancient city wall on my right, and the anticipation of the magical Sukiennice cloth hall through the alleyways, I felt my heart sink with guilt.
Life was frustrating here, but that certainly wasn’t the full story. My experiences that evening, the surreal and incomprehensible swing from stagnation and irritation in the hypermarche to bliss and exhilaration ten minutes later on the streets reflected the complicated reality of life in Poland.
It is full of inconsistencies, bureaucratic mazes, masked faces, false hopes, and intense pride, but also an enchanting aura wafting through the crevices, a sorrowful but angelic aria permeating the nation’s soul. In order to completely understand its mystery, one would need to spend a lifetime peeling back the layers, painstakingly deciphering its clues. Poland, I was discovering, was an enigma.
I was in good company as I tried to resolve its riddles. My first months in Krakow were a tumultuous period in Polish domestic as well as foreign relations- a time when European Union leaders and Poland’s own citizens would become increasingly confounded with the status quo.
Particularly within the EU, a swelling “Poland fatigue” came to dominate all diplomacy like an omnipresent and obstinate cloud. Having expanded to include Poland in 2004, the former member states complained increasingly vocally that Poland seemed to mistakenly believe that the EU had joined it, rather than the other way around.
Resenting the march of European history that had nearly obliterated and then forgotten it, and realizing its geopolitical leverage for the first time, Poland overplayed its hand in round after round, alienating nearly every ally. The ruling Law and Justice party (PiS) retaliated over the most minor infractions with Germany, at one point cancelling a high level visit due to an unfavorable newspaper editorial. As the EU attempted to wrap up the Lisbon Treaty negotiations, an increasingly mercurial and sanctimonious Polish posture towards Germany threatened to unravel years of international effort. Warsaw also impeded Brussels’ efforts to thaw relations with Moscow, raising concerns over Russian energy shipments to the subcontinent as winter rapidly approached.
An overwhelming and self-defeating paranoia and victimization in combination with an intense messianic mission drove Warsaw’s self perception and policy. Acidly hostile towards Germany due to unresolved disputes from the Second World War and distrusting Russia following the Cold War; still bitter at the opulent “West” for its perceived abandonment of Poland twice to its enemies; convinced of its fraternal and moral mission to lead the nations of Eastern Europe to freedom; and finally, certain only of the military backing of the distant United States, Poland lashed out at its past and nearly lost its foothold on the future.
The situation was at least as bad on the home front. Besieging its opponents with allegations of corruption, mafia ties, sex crimes and communism, PiS found itself caught in its own avalanche and lost control of the political implosion it had set in motion. Championing the interests of its primarily elderly, agrarian, impoverished and staunchly Catholic supporters, the President and Prime Minister (coincidentally, twin brothers) failed to inspire the hope of young, educated workers with upward aspirations and experience abroad. Clinging to a sense of moral superiority and confident in a victory, the majority party voted to dissolve itself in September.
Weary of PiS’s overzealous political machinations, the EU held its breath for one month. When the results of the snap elections were tallied, it, and much of Poland, was able to finally breathe a sigh of relief. Donald Tusk, of the pro-business Civic Platform, had persuaded voters that the time for a new course in domestic and foreign policy had arrived. Young, attractive and athletic, well educated and articulate, hopeful and charismatic, he appeared the John F. Kennedy to the Nikita Krushchev. Immediately shaking hands with EU leaders, he promised to revive Poland’s relationship with the supranational body, and promptly set to work on ironing out old problems. Particularly with Russia, cracks appeared in the ice if not a thaw, as Tusk sent high level delegations to discuss bilateral issues. And with the US, Tusk has held a firmer line, delicately attempting to balance the wishes of its former champion with its geopolitical reality.
In spite of the greatest turnout PiS had ever seen by its supporters, Tusk carried the election due to tidal wave of support, primarily by younger citizens, many of whom cast their votes from abroad. Whether Tusk will be the answer to Poland’s heartfelt prayers remains to be seen; what is clear at this point is the desire of the nation’s younger generation to make peace with the past and take its proper place on the pedestals of Europe.
Arriving at my apartment, squeezing past waiting tram passengers and customers scurrying into the apteka, I paused for a moment with my key in hand. Turning around back towards the Planty, a green ring created when the Austrian invasion obliterated the old city walls, I felt for a moment a flickering of understanding, as if the enigma had brushed past my skin and whispered in my ear. Perhaps it cannot be cracked, and perhaps the legacies of past suffering will linger past their expiration date. Long lines may remain, but so does the indefatigable Polish spirit. Just as the acid-rain washed buildings on the Rynek sparkle again under the sun and new paint, and just as the city created a park out of the destruction of its ancient history, so too will the nation rise again. Just how it will transpire remains to be seen.
I, too, have a problem with an over-reliance on standardized tests in our education system. My husband and I have taken the GRE, and we are currently suffering under his GMAT studying. I take issue with having to prove that I can do math and that I have a good grasp of the English language in order to get into graduate school, when my transcript and college degree would seem to be evidence enough. Since my area of concentration is in the humanities, I feel frustrated that I must summon the rules of trigonometry from the deep recesses of my mind just so that I can write literary analysis or study languages at an advanced level.
And yet... standardized tests seem to be the best way to compare large amounts of students who came from different institutions. They compare everyone according to the same standard - something that's very difficult to do with transcripts alone. They also demonstrate a capacity to study, to learn and to take tests – something that while not being the most important practical life skill outside of academia is actually quite essential to successful participation within it. They’re obviously also designed as a way of weeding out students: someone who can’t be bothered to learn (or re-learn, as is often the case) material that they should have already been exposed to probably won’t be motivated or focused enough in their chosen program. And as maddening and unfair as the tests seem during the preparation phase, there’s a certain level of justice in it: most departments will not expect their PhD candidates in the arts to have aced the math section, just as advanced engineering programs will not weigh vocabulary skills as highly.
As for the concern you share with your readers about the use of male personal pronouns in lieu of female ones, it is unfortunate that there is such a slant. Yet I wonder whether there isn’t a simplicity and consistency in sticking to one gender over the other as opposed to switching back and forth all the time. It’s unfortunate that we don’t have a neuter, gender-neutral pronoun that would work grammatically (we can’t really use “it”). While this may show a bias on the part of the publishers, I am unconvinced that it is indicative of a deeper sexism. Also, while it may be irksome and deserving of a letter to the publisher, it is not the kind of bias that makes it impossible for a woman to study for and pass the test.
I am familiar with different social science research that has demonstrated a biased slant towards White, upper-middle class students - but this has primarily been in college entrance tests like the SAT. Naturally, if the same company writes the SAT and the GRE, the same types of bias would be expected in the latter as well, but I have to wonder whether it is really unreasonable to expect graduate students to have a graduate-student-level vocabulary regardless of background and race. I completely see the point that societal barriers in childhood prevent students from getting in to college when they could turn out to be a very bright and successful achievers- but I'd argue that by the time they start applying for graduate school, they have had at least four years to bring their vocabulary at least up to college level.
America is suffering a terrible watering-down of our vocabulary, and graduate schools are the last place that should be encouraging this trend. While you argue that vocabulary is an unfair metric because it is exclusive to certain groups, I would argue the opposite once an individual reaches adulthood. The dictionary and quality literature are open-access, available to everyone. Vocabulary is also one of the few abilities we can truly improve, since all we have to do is study, read and begin inserting higher-level words into our daily vocabulary.
Posted by MHahn | November 18, 2009 2:57 PM
Moving Beyond the Hysteria
Thank you for sharing this story and the invaluable information. Hopefully, with more sanity and less hysteria, everyone can be better prepared and can save their family the heartache of making decisions for them.
Posted by MHahn | November 3, 2009 2:28 PM
While I was impressed with your determination to ask the tough questions, I have to say that I am not completely satisfied with his answers. In particular, much of what they are able to "cut out" is central to the fact that they live in New York and seems impractical or just silly for the rest of the country.
Like air conditioning. Yes, it gets steamy in the city in the summer- but clearly if they are able to cut the AC, then it was a luxury to begin with. For much of the country from California to Florida, this is really an impossibility. (Perhaps we, on the other hand, could go without heat?) I almost had to laugh when he said that they just went down to the fountain. Most of the rest of the country doesn't live in a place where you can walk to a fountain, splash around and chat with other city folk in the waning twighlight. I also had to wonder about their mission to eat locally. Now, really - how much food is actually grown within NYC proper? Lastly the fact that he and his wife are both writers who are able to live in NYC indicates they are already substantially better-off than the rest of the country- they could afford the extra cost and discomfort of their experiment and have the necessary degree of control over their lives to actually try to make it happen.
Not that cutting back isn't something we can all do- but I have to wonder how instructive his example can be for me when nothing about his life resembles mine.
Still, nice work :)
Posted by MHahn | October 1, 2009 4:04 PM
It is interesting to read this article in the context of women's liberation. Should we be liberated from old age and all of its unpleasantness- or are we opening ourselves to dangerous diseases such as breast cancer as we try to fight off sagging skin and hot flashes?
It seems there is no easy answer to this debate. It is much easier to side with the anti-hormone replacement therapy crowd right now because I am under thirty and not experiencing any of menopause's devastating side effects. Thank you for your article, which explains so clearly the pros and cons of both sides along with a female perspective.
Posted by MHahn | August 31, 2009 3:59 PM
I have heard TV commentators lambast the use of highly-paid immigrants for such IT jobs - they say that these visa employees are stealing jobs that belong to Americans. I do see the point that Americans lose their jobs because it is so much cheaper to pay skilled overseas workers and believe that this is something to address in our trade agreements and tax structure. Yet the bottom line - the real truth that Americans refuse to admit - is that our educational standards have become laughable. By the time we get to college, we are already too far behind to catch up. (How many Asian immigrant kids do we see in remedial math?) Bill Gates himself has said that such visas are essential - that there really are no Americans qualified to do the work. Now, there is less motivation for them to come here. Excellent article!
Posted by MHahn | August 25, 2009 10:47 PM
In the United States, we tend to imagine ourselves as being the most free and democratic nation on the face of the earth. In reality, especially when it comes to citizens' privacy, we not only lag way behind most of Europe but also have institutional obstacles that prevent "the right to the protection of personal data." Personal details such as prescription medication and credit history are regularly exchanged on the open market for enormous sums of money. Perhaps it comes as a shock to other Americans to find that this is most definitely NOT the norm in Europe. I'm disappointed that Europe has decided to cave to the US's demands- surely they could have collectively refused had they really wanted to.
Posted by MHahn | August 25, 2009 10:37 PM
Thank you for sharing your America perspective on the French health-care system. We often hear fear-mongering allegations that the United States will turn into a "socialized France"- but my instinct is to ask, "what is so terribly wrong with that?" France has demonstrated that it is ultimately more pragmatic and cost-effective to spend money up front in a socialized and universal way rather than our patchwork and haphazard "private" approach.
Increasingly, we have to wonder if it is really affordable and worth the sacrifice to try and make a living in this country. We don't have children yet, but when we do, how will we afford the pregnancy much less the lifetime of health care bills? We are already swamped.
Posted by MHahn | August 21, 2009 10:54 PM
I agree that debt ensalves the debtor, and am frustrated that American society seems to require a certain level of indebtedness just to get by. For instance, more places such as hospitals have demanded that we use our credit card to pay for services that we can't afford. If we didn't all have credit cards - like, say, forty years ago- they wouldn't be able to charge such exhorbitant rates for medical services. At the very least, they might be forced to work out a plan with their patients. It's so easy to force customers to use their plastic- that way the hospital gets paid, and the customer can just pay the interest later.
I personally believe that while a contributing factor to America's financial crisis was our consistent pattern of living above our means, that the lowly means themselves are an even greater problem. We may be called the richest nation on earth, but our people are impoverished and cannot even afford basic necessities.
Posted by MHahn | August 11, 2009 1:39 PM
Thank you for this intelligent, rational and informative post about Iran. Rarely does one find articles or commentary that meet any of those qualifications.
It is frightening how little most Americans know about Iran -especially its history and its regional politics. Even more frightening is that so many of my fellow citizens are unfailing, knee-jerk supporters of Israel despite its clearly provocative policies vis-a-vis its surrounding neighbors. This blog does such an excellent job of explaining the facts. I'm going to send it to everyone I know.
Posted by MHahn | June 25, 2009 4:21 PM
This article helped me better understand the history of water in Bahrain, as well as the risk of future conflicts and health hazards due to an over-reliance on desalination in the region. I, too, live in a desert that has been over-run by development in the name of progress- a trend that has left our water tables dangerously low. In Arizona, people rarely think about the water that they use because it is so readily available. I hope that Bahrain will be more successful than my state in meeting its water crisis! Thanks for the article!
Posted by MHahn | March 3, 2009 8:11 AM