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September 14, 2011

Guatape: More than just a day trip


by wanderingpaisahostel


After the insanity of the flower festival in August, I took a much needed vacation to the small lake town of Guatape. The town is located next to a large reservoir that was built in the late 60's for a hydroelectric dam project. Although most of the power from this reservoir is exported to Venezuela, the lake is frequently used for fishing, a variety of water sports and other boating activities. Next to Guatape is a large, 200 meter high rock monolith (called "El Peñón" by the locals), that was formed over 70 million years ago along the Antioquia rock base. The rock is the most popular tourist attraction in the town, as travelers can climb to the top using the 644 step brick-and-mortar staircase that leads to a spectacular viewpoint of the surrounding lakes and quaint villages. The center of the Guatape is also an attraction in itself, with beautifully decorated and colorful paintings on the sides of each building.

Although I had already been to Guatape and the rock for a day trip, I had always been curious as to what else the town offered. So the week after the festival, I hopped in a bus from the noisy northern Medellin bus station and within an hour and a half I was transported to peaceful tranquility of Guatape. My choice of stay for the week was the Hostel "El Encuentro", a beautiful lakeside property on the quieter side of town with a folksy feel. On my first full day in the town, the owner of the hostel took me and a few other guests on a day hike that went to a hidden water fall behind the town. Along the way we stopped and checked out a trout farm, where the owners gave us a tour and told us we could come back to go fishing anytime. The joy of traveling within a small town is the humble friendliness of everyone. Later that night, when I was wandering in the town, a little kid on his bicycle saw that I was lost and gave me a guided tour back to the hostel.
Another activity I found amazing was the boat tour offered by the "Lake View Hostel", which took me to Pablo Escobar's bombed out resort home that was built in 1989. Although the place is surrounded by "do not enter" signs, we went inside and saw the ruins of the house, which look like they have been relatively undisturbed since its destruction. Also on the tour, it is possible take the boat over by the spot where the old town of El Peñol stood before it was flooded by the building of the hydroelectric dam. According to my tour guide, the inhabitants of the town refused to be relocated, so the Government of Colombia had to blow up the church in the main square in order to convince everyone to leave. On a nearby hill they were building a replica of the old church and the main square. Although the replica wasn't finished it was nice to see the government paying tribute to the old town they had lost in the late 60s.

The entire time I was in Guatape, I had the feeling that I was enjoying a place that was about to get hit with tourism, and that I was one of the lucky few that had come before it was "discovered". Being in such a pleasant place close to nature with a laid-back vibe really helped me recharge my batteries and prepare for another stint at hostel management. I am glad that I took the opportunity to go, as I now have a great place to spend the weekend when the city life becomes overwhelming.

- Brent
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